How is better too mount everything inside.
Anhang 101841 nr 1
Anhang 101842 nr 2
Druckbare Version
How is better too mount everything inside.
Anhang 101841 nr 1
Anhang 101842 nr 2
I would prefer version nr.1 to keep the center of gravity as low as possible.
that's exactly what I was thinking, plus I want the boat to be thinner, I would like to mount two TP 4050/2310 I want to run with 4 s what ESC do you think would be good.
Thank you for your answer.
Depends on what prop you would use.
The 180A Turnigy or 150A Flycolor are "state of the art".
I would recommend the Turnigys and X442 Octura props.
do you know where I can buy Turnigy 180, there is a store in Germany or somewhere in Europe
It's available here in the RC Raceboats shop!
it's about Hobbywing 180 v3, I heard that the previous model was much better, I have 3 such ESC actually only one now, two I lost them with my 84 mistyc she sunk, really very strong I only ran with 6s on my boats their only problem at least on me, comes in fast boiled LVC protection so I always ran without this protection,and no problem,I manage to burn 4 different motors and the ESC survive
Don't worry, the V3 should work solid on 4S.
Thank you very much for your advice
You're welcome!
And it's ready ,missing parts only the propellers and the flexshafts.
Anhang 102397
Anhang 102398
Anhang 102399
Anhang 102400
Anhang 102401
Anhang 102402
Anhang 102403
Nice build! I'm curious how she does on the water.
I recommend to sharpen the edge on the stern with some epoxy putty for a more defined driving behaviour.
Regards
Tobias
Hello, and thank you.
You mean this part?Anhang 102406
Correct! :hi5:
Same with other edges. They're fairly round because of your reinforcement layer. This causes the water to rise along the drop side of your hull which results in unnecessary drag or suction effects...
But maybe you'll need it to avoid to get airborn ;)
Regards
Tobias
Thank you very much for the suggestions.
Indeed, the epoxy resin has gathered on the edges, I tried as much as possible to put less but without a vacuum pump it is difficult, I will run like this for a start and there will certainly be adjustments to be made, if necessary I will sand the excess resin , I just hope the boat survives the two TP 4050 / 2350kv engines
Whit respect.
Apostol
Apostol,
when building a hull in a mold I sometimes even place some material for grinding so it is easy removal of aditional material that has no structural purpose.
This can be done here as well. Especially when you don't lay all fiber around the corner you already support sharp edges.
The structural fibers must be placed first (on the inside).
When you start grinding now make sure you don't remove the fiber that you need for the structure. Do you also have reinforcements with fiberglass on the inside? That would help a lot.
I am looking forward to see videos of the boat running!
Best Regards, Eike
Hello Eike.
I have 2 layer of fiberglass inside and outside.
The hull is made from 4mm plywood and they are 6 pieces plus cover 7 in total, joined with quick resin 5 minutes hardening then coated in fiberglass and resin with .
hardening in 48 hours
Best regards
https://youtu.be/XK6QXKu3MYs
And finaly the first run I'm happy
:confused: - looks like much work to do...
Regards
Tobias
No,it's ok,she ru run like this because of the props one octura m445 and ather ABC 1714-10-50 spining in same direction ,for the moment I don't have a pair of props.
Whit my respect .
Apostol