After the MPM105, here come the CT06 !!!

Hey Mathieu !
I think your boat will look very nice when it's back from your painter.
Please send a picture when it is back :p.

regards Joerg

Hope the painter will do a good job. I didn't asked for an absolute scale paint but something that's looks like the big one. Should see the result in 2 weeks...

In the mean time I'll work in my Baby SV and maybe on my 1:10 scale wood kit I started 1 and half year ago...

I'll keep you posted ;)

Mathieu

Hey Mathieu !
I am also drive a Baby SV from Andy, very nice Boat. My Baby SV looks like the "Lucas Oil" design. Top Speed is actually 110km/h with 6s2p. I think there is a little more possible, but so it's enough for me. Some guys from Berlin and Andy said, that is the first good running electrified Baby SV they have seen until now.
Setup:
2x Leopard 5674/1550
2x ESC Turnigy 180A
2x MTC Strut III
1x MTC Rudder III
Props are Octura X-450/3


regards Joerg

Hi Joerg,

No paint scheme for my Baby SV so far.
Mine is not built the same you did : single motor and long run time in mind. So I use an outrunner with 560 Kv with 10S2P 5000. The goal is to get close to the running time and speed compared with boats powered by a stock Zenoah engine.
So no 110 km/h here :D

Greets,

Mathieu

Hi,

Can some of you explain how to make the fake turbine exhaust with LEDs please ?

I know Mike have one on his Tandem Wing and you can see almost all 1:6 scale electrics have it also.

I'm asking because a friend of mine just received his MPM-107 from Peter and he would like to make the fake turbine exhaust. Cherry on the cake would be this effect : https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=3&theater

Mathieu

Hello Mathieu,

I am on a business trip now, I make pictures when I come back.

Its only a carbon tube fixend a the cover, with a LED in it.

Mike

Hi,

here are Thema pictures:
Anhang 68429Anhang 68428Anhang 68427Anhang 68426

especially cool I find the Electroconnection with the two closures.

Mike

Thanks you for the pics Mike.

A very good idea for the wires, very cleaver !!!

Mathieu

Hey Mathieu !
I've mounted the turnfin now. I ordered the same one like you at mini meca rc. It is adjustable from 0° to 15° degree. I read approximately 7° is a good default angle.

best regards
Joerg

Hello Joerg,

What thickness did you ordered ? 3 or 4mm ?
Where the point come from ?

Can't wait to see more of your build ;)

Greets

Mathieu

Hey Mathieu !
That is the standard one with 4mm. I will see how it works and when I get any problems, I make it thinner by myself.
I 'm actually think about the positioning of the mounting bracket. I mounted the turnfin at the outer side of the mounting bracket. Is that right ? I heart, you have to mount the turnfin at the inner side of the bracket, so the water could raise up along the turnfin without any resist. Also the side length of the mounting bracket is along the whole length of the turnfin, I think, I will shorten it a little bit.
OK, that are all peanuts, but in summary it could be have an influence.

regards Joerg

Hey Mathieu !
I changed the mounting bracket. So I'm able to fix the fin at the inner side of the bracket and the water can raise up without any resist. The adjusted angle is 7° degree at the moment. This should be my default adjustment for the maiden run.
Anhang 68698

Hello Joerg,

Your second installation is better I think, but will the mount be strong enougth to not bend in turns ? Maybe you planned to fix the turn fin at his back ?

Keep up the good work !

I should get my hull from the painter next week....... Can't wait !!!

Mathieu

Hey Mathieu !
You are right, I am still waiting for the material to retain the fin against the hull. I'll use 4 rod strainer like this

Anhang 68736

regards Joerg

Yeah !

Love that !

I may add a couple to mine, but It would be "Just for the eyes" because my mount is thick enougth.

Mathieu

Hey Mathieu !
I use a 6mm mounting bracket. That should be strong enough. But additional retaining is not bad and is an pretty eyecatcher. I put all the hardware on his desired place today and the COG is 6mm behind the sponson. I think that is a good default value.

regards Joerg

Ok your mount is definitely strong enougth but as it is shorter then the fin I was worried about the fin. With the additionnal rods, it will looks nice and be strong enougth !

For the CG you mean 6cm, no ?

Mathieu

Yes, 6cm of corse :doh:

So it's good !
You didn't had to open the sponsons to place the lipos ?

If you can take a picture that show where the parts are located it would help my friend who's building one.

Greets,

Mathieu

Hallo Mathieu !
Here some pics. But the COG was without Wings and Canopy.

regards Joerg

Thank you for your quick reply Joerg, I've forwarded you photos to my friend.

Mathieu

Hi Mathieu !
I'm still thinking about the mount of the T-Wing in the back. The mount should be strong enough, but it should also drawback in case of a flip over or crash. I need a predetermined breaking point for that. What is your solution ?
Sorry, but I talk with many people and the best solution for my opinion I will take.
My favourite solution until now is, a slit of 1,5mm into the hull and the sided wing. In the hull slit I laminate a cfk plate of 1,5mm. The cfk plate must be a little bit longer than the depth of the hull. It must be overlap approximately 5cm. Now I mount the overlap of the cfk plate into the sidewing and fix it with some plastic screws, M4 or so. The horizontal wing I'll fix between the sidewings also only with plastic screws. So in a case of a crash, the construction can loose and the destruction of the several parts is not soooo fatal I think.
What do you mean ?

regards Joerg

Hello Joerg,

I did almost the same but I used corner angle instead of just a plate.
I agree with what you wrote, I also use nylon screws as break point in case of flip.

I got my Ct back from the painter. Pleased with the result altougth the green is a bit too dark, but no big deal :D

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...psa58da80c.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps6fd6368b.jpghttp://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps3f0b3d72.jpg

Regards,

Mathieu

Hey Mathieu !
Your boat looks so much better now. I'm always astonished, what an optical increase a little bit colour do. Congratulations to your new looking boat.

But, what do you mean with "corner angle" ?
Is it an Aluminium Profile with a 90° degree angle ?

regards Joerg

hello my friend

what to say ... except Magnificent

stefys :cool:

Hey,

Joerg, thanks for your kind words ;) You're right, some colors and the boat is not the same !
For the corner angle you understood correctly. A picture worth 100 words : http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

I used carbon instead of aluminium because I had some carbon prepreg, but aluminium is fine.

@ stefys : thank you mate ;)

Hi again,

Here is my CT06 ready to get all the hardware installed. Can't wait to get her met again !!!

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...psa5c8b4d3.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps682ce5b3.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps3cebc82a.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps30b89a3f.jpg

Pleased with the result.

Mathieu

Hi all,

I finally had the chance to get my CT06 last weekend. What an amazing hull !!! Thanks to all of you that provided advices and support.


http://youtu.be/6PNTWVFC3f4

I fail at uploading pics thru the forum interface :( I apply what Hans wrote here but it doesn't seems to work.

Mathieu

Hello all,

It's been long time since my last post. Made some more testings and finally switched from 10S2P 5000 to 10S1P 8000. I use lipos from HK and wonder what would be the benefit to order some packs from SLS or Dynamic RC (AGA Power) or maybe GensAce ? Will thoses more expensive brands means better performances and longevity compared to HK packs?

Greets,

Mathieu