HILFE bei T180 V2 Reperatur

Hi zusammen,
ich habe noch einen T180 der alten Generation im Regal liegen der nicht mehr so ganz will wie ich es gerne hätte.

Gefahren bin ich ihn an 6S mit "deaktiviertem" BEC. Leider nur rotes Kabel gezogen und nicht die Lötbrücke geöffnet.
Während der Fahrt abgestellt obwohl nichts thermisch überlastet war.

Schadensbild:
Mit geschlossener BEC Lötbrücke piepst der Regler und die rote LED blinkt auch. Motor läuft aber nicht an.

Mit geöffneter BEC Lötbrücke (und externer Spannungsversorgung) piepst nichts mehr und auch die rote LED leuchtet nicht mehr.
Wenn ich jetzt Gas gebe hört man ein leichtes "Fiepen" was vom Regler kommt.

Der Regler wird punktuell warm (habe das Gehäuse geöffnet).

Hat jemand eine Ahnung wo hier der Fehler liegen könnte?

Vielen Dank im Voraus!

Moin,

klingt so, als ob eine Phase fehlen würde. Punktuell warm auf der Steuerseite würde auf einen Treiber hindeuten.

LG Kay

Die warme Stelle war auf der Steuerseite.

Typically when a driver goes there is usually some visual indication not always though. Anything that looks odd or as a result of heat probably means damage. But if a driver went out Id find it hard to believe that all the fets are in perfect working order. If they are not you usually replace all the fets. Im sure this is SMT technology so it may be a difficult repair unless you have a good eye and steady hand, The next option is a small hot air attachment on a solder station or possibly hot tweezers to remove and replace the fets if they are indeed damage.If they are a ball type hot air will be you only option and if you go ham the heat can damage other components Have you only tried the drive on one motor? Im just curious not necessarily recommending it. IT seems like it still may be repairable so u may not want to push it if you already see a hot spot. Not all that easy to repair unless you have schematics or know how to reverse engineer the circuit. The drivers are likely international rectifier or infineon. Get the looking glass ready to read those chips. You can get the pinout from the data sheet look at typical, maximum and minimum vales that should be seen at those pins and at least confirm what you see at each pin. If there is an internal short in the pins something will likely measure out of an accepted value. Compare all three and see if all the pins on each read the same. DO NOT SHORT ACROSS THE PINS WITH THE PROBE! If you need to fashion a small tip out of wire wrapped around the probe tip do so.http://www.helifreak.com/attachment....0&d=1459086020


A small ampere rating fuse on the b+ above IO of the motor may help to prevent more damage while trouble shooting. Use the lowest possible voltage it will operate at. No need to show 22.5 volts and a few 100 amps for diagnostic purpose.
If anything goes wrong a few Kilowatt possibly produced by the lipo will surely finish the job.http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-fc/evil.gif

The drivers cost very little so you can replace all 3 and know it is not them but electronics are a chained reaction waiting to happen. Typically electronic problems don't expose themselves without being bothered and telling on others.... If it was the fet drivers what caused it...... Maybe water bridge caused a short on the driver or something similar may have been possible. But failed fets are common causes in power supplies of linear motor amplifiers. I do alot of diagnostics on those PS's and it is similar topology. Please also make sure no cold solder joints are at the connectors. Something so simple can give you all kinds of mysterious problems.

You can purchase a re-ball station for ball style chips but I dont know if thats feasible to repair an esc that cost less that the re-ball station. Manufacturers flow work is done in prepared atmosphere and that helps to facilitate the beautiful OEM results.... A true reball has the capabilty to look through the chip with X-ray and line up the balls and pads before flow...

This is all probably more than you needed to know but I just try to help.....

Hubert